Sample Letter for Filing Credit Disputes

Sample Letter for Filing Credit Disputes

One of the most important powers you have as a consumer of credit is the power to utilize a credit dispute letter to dispute any items on your credit report. When you send a credit dispute letter to any of the credit bureaus, by law they must investigate and resolve your dispute within 30 days.

Credit dispute letters can be a sent either by mail or online. Online submissions offer speed and convenience. However, certified mail is the always the better option.

That is because it allows you to track the correspondence. It allows you to maintain evidence to support the start of the 30-day clock.

Anything on your credit report is subject to dispute. This includes credit inquiries, collection accounts, late payments, judgements, and anything else that might impact your credit score.

When you identify a problem on your credit report, you need to build a compelling case. You will need to do that to have the problem fixed or removed.

Your credit dispute letter is essentially a summary of your argument. You should send it to the credit bureau along with any relevant documents to support your case. If your dispute is successful and the item is removed from your credit report, you will likely see your credit score improve in a matter of weeks.

Our best credit repair agencies guide analyzes the top firms in the industry that help you dispute & remove inaccurate items on your report.

How Do Credit Dispute Letters Work?

The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) gives you the right to dispute items on your credit report. You can do this order to protect yourself from unscrupulous creditors and overworked credit bureaus.

When you suspect one or more credit bureaus are reporting something incorrectly, you can send them a credit dispute letter. That requires them to investigate and resolve your claim within 30 days.

Once the credit bureau receives your claim, they label the item you flagged for review as “in dispute” on your credit report. Over the next 30 days, the bureau must investigate your claim. They will notify you of their findings.

If they find that your dispute is unwarranted because the reported information is verified and determined to be accurate, they will simply remove the “in dispute” label.

They will not take further action. If they are able to confirm the problem you identify, or if they fail to verify or validate the information that someone is reporting, they must remove the item you are disputing from your record.

It’s certainly possible to dispute something online or even over the phone. However, it’s always a good idea to use certified mail and retain receipts.

You should do this in order to document what you sent and when you sent it. This will help you to hold the bureau to the 30-day timeline required by law.

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What Items Can I Dispute on my Credit Report?

You can dispute any item on your credit report. When looking through your report, which you should do periodically, keep an eye out for anything that appears to be erroneous or duplicated.

There are some more common errors to look for. Those include fraudulent accounts, false inquires, inaccurate balances, late payments that weren’t actually late, and inaccurate account statuses.

Sometimes these errors are the result of identity theft (fraudulent accounts). Sometimes they are just mistakes the creditors or even the bureaus themselves made.

Identity theft can be a real hassle to dispute. That is because the perpetrators often use forged or stolen documents that “proved” they were you when they opened the account. This can make it very difficult for you to prove that you were not, in fact, the one who opened the account.

When you have difficult situations to resolve, it may be worthwhile to hire a reputable credit repair company. They will know exactly what your situation needs in order to resolve quickly.

That is because they handle tough problems like identity theft every day. Yes, there are fees. However, it’s usually well worth it. People realize that when they consider all the time and aggravation they would incur by tackling it on their own.

You should make sure that any delinquent accounts haven’t outlived their lifespan on your report. For instance, a late payment shouldn’t be on there if it happened eight years ago. According to MyFico, most delinquencies shouldn’t be showing after seven years, though a Chapter 7 bankruptcy stays on for ten years.

You should also check closely to make sure no accounts are duplicated on your report. It can be tricky to catch sometimes, because loans can be purchased and repurchased over and over again, making it easy for mix-ups to happen. This is especially common with student loans.

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What Should I Do Before Sending a Credit Dispute Letter?

The first thing you should do is make sure you have all your facts straight, along with any documented evidence to support those facts. There is always a possibility of not having enough documentation to support your claim, but it’s never a bad thing to have too much evidence.

If your dispute involves a mistake made by a specific creditor, you should call them first. They are the ones who provided the negative information, so it only makes sense to take up the issue with them first.

The creditor might acknowledge and fix the mistake right away, which could save you a lot of time and energy. They might agree to look into the claim and get back to you on it, in which case you should remind them that they have 30 days to give you an answer and let them know you will be following up with them often during that window of time.

If they dig in and stand by their reporting, you should demand that they send any evidence of verification as soon as possible. That information may help you determine what additional evidence you might need to include with the credit dispute letter that you are preparing to send to the credit bureau(s).

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What Should I Include in My Credit Dispute Letter?

As a minimum, you should include your credit report with your flagged item(s) highlighted, underlined, or circled in order to help them be sure what you are disputing. You should also include any supporting documents that support whatever claims you are making in your dispute letter.

You should keep all original documents for yourself and send only copies to the credit bureau. It’s also advisable to maintain electronic files as a back-up, just in case your original documents are lost or destroyed.


<Your Name>

<Your Address>

<Your City, State, Zip Code>

<Name of Credit Bureau>


<City, State, Zip Code>


I am writing to dispute the following information in my file:

<Item 1: Name of Source, Type of Item, Account Number or Identifier>

<Item 2 if required, same format as Item 1>

You will also find this item circled on the attached credit report. The item I have identified is <inaccurate/incomplete> because<reason for the issue including any supporting facts/evidence>.

I am requesting that this item be <deleted / adjusted> in order adequately reflect my true credit history on the attached report.

I have attached all necessary supporting documentation to support my claim.

I am asking you to reexamine this item and <remove it from / correct it on> my file at your earliest convenience. I sent this letter via certified mail to ensure this matter is resolved within the required 30-day window.


<Your name>

Enclosures: <List any included files / attachments>

It’s also a good idea to include two copies of a photo ID. Usually these are a driver’s license and passport. That is just to make it easier for them to authenticate you. You should always send via certified mail to help you document and track the 30-day timeline.

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What if My Credit Dispute Letter is Rejected?

Was your letter intended for repairing your credit rejected by the credit bureau? You do have some options available that might help you repair your credit. One of the more common next steps is to file an appeal with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB).

If you decide to file an appeal with the CFPB, you should include all the of supporting evidence that you sent to the bureau originally. In addition, include the bureau’s response.

You should also include a detailed account of why you disagree with the bureau’s findings, as well as any additional evidence that might be helpful beyond what you included with the original submission.

If the bureau took too long to process their response, you should be sure to let the CFPB know, and include any supporting evidence. Again, this is why it’s so important to use certified mail and retain all records and receipts.

Finally, it’s worth your time to write a statement summarizing your dispute, explaining exactly what happened and why you believe the item to be erroneous. The statement would be included with your credit report, and while it won’t help your poor credit score, it may provide just enough insight and clarity about the flagged item to help sway a would-be lender to make a favorable decision.

Rick Miller

About Rick Miller

Rick is a former US Army Aviator, West Point graduate, and Darden MBA. He owns and operates a successful Real Estate Investment firm, and he enjoys spending time with his wife and three children in Hartford, CT.

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12 thoughts on “Sample Letter for Filing Credit Disputes

  1. Nina M Blackshear, I hope you have better luck than some of us. Any advice for me? I was hacked and have all evidence on my case. I have been paying every month before due date to get my credit back. Unfortunately, it continues to decrease before I get it to 600 which is upsetting to say the least. Now I am trying to fix this myself.

  2. How much time (days) should I give the Credit Bureau to remove the disputed account from my credit file after I send my 2nd letter? Credit Bureau failed to respond within 30 days, send 2nd letter requesting removal, but unsure when I should send the 3rd letter? Everything was sent certified letter. Thanks.

  3. Hello,

    OK, I did a dispute over the phone with Experian. They came back and said it was ‘valid’. But looking OVER my credit form or whatever it’s called, it is showing closed as of 2005! Why is this still on my credit? It is SUPPOSED to be OFF of my credit. I am confused?

    Before I send them another letter, ‘certified mail’, am I doing something wrong?


    1. It’s not a good idea to dispute anything online. When accepting the terms and conditions you are giving up your rights to sue them. Hope this helps! 🙂

  4. Hi, I have a question:

    For over 4 yrs now I have disputed a car loan I had nothing to do with. It was my ex-husband’s. I sent police reports, handwriting comparisons, proof we were divorced showing I was nowhere near him when he bought the car. I have recently been informed that the account has been removed from his credit reports but not mine. When I am the one who has been affected, what do I do? I am lost and confused. Any advice is most appreciated. Thank you.

  5. Hi there, I have been trying to clean up my credit report for the longest time. Every time I’ve tried to remove something it is being sold to another financial group who then post it on my credit report as new. I have items on my credit report from 2006 and on and on. It seems like it is being recycled. I cannot afford to pay to have it cleaned. There should not be anything on my credit report except my school loan. Help or guidance is needed. Thank you!

    1. I had a similar problem and was recommended to dispute any items that was sold illegally to a third party. Some if not all collection agencies don’t have your written consent with signature that you approved to have your account sold. That is a violation of the consumer act.

      Create your account through CK and dispute from there. I believe you can do a free dispute through TU. I’m sure you can do the other 2 credit bureaus online through their own website. But rest assured if you haven’t tried this method you should. These bureaus have 30 days to comply. Best of luck!

  6. Hi there are thanks for this valuable information.I worked for Washington National Insurance Company and their subsidiary company PMA USA for a couple of months in early 2018. I was doing fairly well traveling, signing blue collar workers at state offices for supplemental health and life insurance until the client chargebacks began. The company cancelled my contract in April 2018 and now I am stuck with a $1500 collections bill. I have an 812 credit score so far. Should I start sending the letters to the 3 credit bureaus now or later when it is reported? Should I wait or act first?

  7. Hi, I really appreciate your suggestions on how to write an effective dispute report in order to repair my credit. It has been a uphill battle, because every time my credit was asked about they declined my credit score. I tried to use one of those so called legal help groups and they screwed up my credit report worse than at first. I ask that they repair their mistake and they said they would and did not. So I am DIY’ing it myself. So thanks for the tips.

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